Amiga Plus 1995 #2/Amiga Plus CD - 1995 - No. 2.iso/internet/faq/englisch/fencing

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Archive-name: sports/fencing-faq/part1
Last-modified: 1995/03/08
Version: 4.10

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This is a list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) with answers, compiled
for the UseNet newsgroup rec.sport.fencing.  It is intended to reduce
repetitive discussions on the Net by addressing commonly raised topics.
This document is maintained by Morgan Burke (Email: [e-mail]).
Contributions, corrections, and suggestions are welcome.

Most of the questions and answers pertain to FIE (Olympic) Fencing;
Japanese fencing (kendo, kenjustsu, iaido, etc.) is treated in a
separate FAQ list ("Japanese Sword Arts") that can occasionally be
found in the newsgroups rec.sport.fencing or rec.martial-arts, or on
the IAIDO-L mailing list (see section 3.7 for details).  The Japanese
Sword Arts FAQ is maintained by Neil Gendzwill ([e-mail]).

Part I of the Fencing FAQ deals with common questions about starting
fencing, training, and rules of competition.  Part II deals with
fencing equipment, maintenance, and troubleshooting.  Part III is a
list of resources that are useful to the modern fencer (eg. suppliers,
references, glossary).  All parts can be found on the UseNet
newsgroups rec.sport.fencing, rec.answers, or news.answers.
Otherwise, consult section 3.7 for information on finding archived
copies of this document.

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PART I: General

General:
1.1  What sports and martial arts comprise fencing?
1.2  Which is the best weapon?
1.3  Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics?

Getting Started:
1.4  Does it hurt?
1.5  What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with?
1.6  How long does it take to become good?
1.7  What qualities make a good fencer?
1.8  How much does it cost to get involved in fencing?
1.9  How do I find a good fencing club?

Training:
1.10 What kind of cross-training will help my fencing?
1.11 How can I improve my technique without the help of a coach?

Regulations:
1.12 What is right of way?
1.13 What constitutes an attack?
1.14 What constitutes a parry?
1.15 What are the new FIE rules for 1994/1995?

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1.1  What sports and martial arts comprise fencing?

     The Olympic sport of fencing is comprised of three weapons: foil,
     epee, and sabre.  All are fenced on a long rectangular strip, and
     electronic scoring aids are normally used to assist in the
     detection of touches.  The rules governing these three weapons
     are determined by the FIE (Federation Internationale d'Escrime).
     Briefly, the FIE weapons are described as follows:

     Foil:  Descended from the 18th century small sword, the foil has a
        thin, flexible blade with a square cross-section and a small
        bell guard.  Touches are scored with the point on the torso of
        the opponent, including the groin and back.  Foil technique
        emphasizes strong defense and the killing attack to the body.

     Epee:  Similar to the duelling swords of the mid-19th century,
        epees have stiff blades with a triangular cross section,
        and large bell guards.  Touches are scored with the point,
        anywhere on the opponent's body.  Unlike foil and sabre, there
        no rules of right-of-way to decide which attacks have precedence,
        and double hits are possible.  Epee technique emphasises timing,
        point control, and a good counter-attack.

     Sabre:  Descended from naval and cavalry swords of the late 19th
        century, sabres have a light, flat blade and a knuckle guard.
        Touches can be scored with either the point or the edge of the
        blade, anywhere above the opponent's waist.  Sabre technique
        emphasises speed, feints, and strong offense.

     The most popular of eastern fencing techniques is kendo, the Japanese
     "Way of the Sword".  Kendo is fought with a bamboo shinai, intended
     to resemble a two-handed Japanese battle sword.  Combatants wear
     armour, and strike to the top or sides of the head, the sides of the
     body, the throat, or the wrists.  Accepted technique must be
     observed, and judges watch for accuracy, power, and spirit.  See the
     Japanese Sword Arts FAQ for more information.

     Other martial arts that include elements of swordsmanship are:

     Aikido -- self defence against armed and unarmed attackers.  Includes
        using and defending oneself against Japanese sword techniques.
     Arnis, Escrima -- stick fighting.
     Iaido -- the Japanese art of the draw.
     Kenjutsu -- the unadulterated Japanese martial art of the sword.
     Kung-fu -- a Chinese martial art that includes many sword techniques.
     Modern Pentathlon -- the "soldier's medley", a sport that recreates
        demands placed on a pre-20th century military messenger:  running,
        swimming, shooting, equestrian jumping, and epee fencing.
     Single Stick -- an ancestor of sabre fencing, fought with a
        basket-hilted wooden rod.
     SCA -- the "Society for Creative Anachronism", an organization that
        attempts to re-create the lifestyle of Medieval Europe, including
        jousts and tourneys.  Emphasizes heavy weapon and shield
        techniques, the use of armour, Florentine fencing, and fencing
        in the round.  Additional info on the SCA can be found in the
        newsgroup rec.org.sca.
     Tai Chi -- another Chinese martial art that includes many sword
        techniques.

1.2  Which is the best weapon?

     Such a question is an open invitation to religious warfare.
     Everybody loves to participate, but nothing is ever settled.

     If the question means "what kind of fencing is the most fun?" then
     the answer is: it depends what aspects of fencing you enjoy the most.
     If you are fascinated by technique, bladework, and tactics, you will
     probably get a lot of satisfaction from foil fencing.  More visceral
     fencers who want to experience the adrenaline rush of a fast,
     agressive sword fight will want to try some sabre.  Most epee fencers
     consider themselves practical, no-nonsense sword fighters who rely on
     as few artificial rules as possible.  Enthusiasts of more medieval
     combat styles, involving armour and heavy weapons, should consider
     joining the SCA or a kendo dojo.

     On the other hand, if the question means "which weapon is the most
     deadly?"  the answer will depend on a lot of factors, not the least
     of which are the skill of the combatants, the presence of armour, the
     military and cultural context, and the rules of the fight (ie. is
     this a street fight, a gentlemen's duel, or open field warfare?).
     Most swords are highly optimized for performance in a specific
     environment, and will not perform well outside it.  Comparing two
     swords from completely different historical contexts is therefore
     extremely difficult, if not downright silly.

     Then again, perhaps the question means "which style of fencing is
     the most realistic?"  It must be said that questions of realism have
     little relevance to an activity that has almost no practical
     application in the modern world other than sport and fitness.
     Historically, however, epees have the closest resemblance (among FIE
     weapons) to real duelling swords, and the rules closely parallel
     those of actual duels (sometimes being fought to only a single
     point).  Other martial arts with a high realism factor include
     kenjutsu and some aspects of SCA fighting.

1.3  Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics?

     Although fencing is one of only four sports to have been
     involved in every modern Olympic Games since their inception
     in 1896, it has been mentioned as one of the disciplines
     that will be eliminated from the Games following Atlanta 1996.

     According to Gilbert Felli, Sports Director of the International
     Olympic Committee, the IOC plans to refine future games in
     various ways, including:
        -- limiting the number of athletes to 15000
        -- increasing participation by women
        -- eliminating "so-called artificial team events"
        -- limiting sports of a similar type
        -- modernizing the Olympic program
        -- encouraging sports that provide a good television spectacle

     Fencing is currently undergoing serious revisions to its rules
     and structure to improve its value as a (televised?) spectator
     sport, perhaps in the hopes of retaining its Olympic status.

     Lobby efforts to save fencing's Olympic status have been underway
     for at least a year.  Olympic fencing is safe through 1996, and
     has even been expanded to include women's epee for the first
     time.  The status of Olympic fencing for the 2000 games should be
     determined by now, but news has not yet reached the author.

1.4  Does it hurt?

     Not if done properly.  Although executed with appreciable energy,
     a good, clean fencing attack hurts no more than a tap on the
     shoulder.  The force of the blow is normally absorbed by the flex
     of the blade.  Reckless and overly aggressive fencers can
     occasionally deliver painful blows, however.  Fencing *is* a
     martial art, so you should expect minor bruises and welts every
     now and again.  They are rarely intentional.  The most painful
     blows tend to come from inexperienced fencers who have not yet
     acquired the feel of the weapon.

     The primary source of injury in fencing is from pulled muscles
     and joints.  Proper warm-up and stretching before fencing will
     minimize these occurences.

     There is a risk of being injured by broken weapons.  The shards
     of a snapped blade can be very sharp and cause serious injury,
     especially if the fencer doesn't immediately realize his blade is
     broken, and continues fencing.  Always wear proper protective
     gear to reduce this risk.  FIE homologated jackets, britches, and
     masks are ideal, as they are made with puncture-resistant fabrics
     such as kevlar.  If you cannot afford such extravagances, use a
     plastron (half-jacket worn beneath the regular fencing jacket),
     and avoid old and rusty masks.  Always wear a glove that covers
     the cuff, to prevent blades from running up the sleeve.

     Fencing is often said to be safer than golf.  Whether or not this
     is true, it is an extraordinarily safe sport considering its
     heritage and nature.

1.5  What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with?

     Foil is the most common starter weapon.  It is an excellent weapon
     to begin with if you have no preferences or want to learn
     generalized principles of swordfighting.  Transitions to the other
     weapons from foil are relatively straight forward.  Foil is an
     abstracted form of fencing that emphasises proper defence, and
     cleanly executed killing attacks.  Historically it was a training
     weapon for the small sword, so it is well suited for the purposes of
     learning.  However, it is far from a simple weapon, and many
     experienced fencers return to foil after trying the others.

     Sabre can also be an effective starter weapon, for a few reasons.
     Like foil, it has rules of right-of-way to emphasize proper
     defense, and its de-emphasis of point attacks can be a relief to
     a beginner who doesn't yet have much point control.  Also, some
     low-level sabre competitions are still fenced dry, meaning that
     it can be the cheapest of all weapons to compete in (although
     electric sabre is definitely the most expensive weapon).
     However, sabre differs from foil and epee in a few key respects
     that can reduce its effectiveness as a starter weapon if the
     fencer plans to try the others in the future.  Among these
     differences are the aforementioned de-emphasis of point attacks,
     and a different sense of timing and distance.

     Epee can sometimes be a good starter weapon for two reasons.  First,
     the rules are simple and easy to grasp, and second, the competition
     costs are lower, since no lame' is required.  However, the apparent
     simplicity of the sport can obscure its subtleties to the beginner,
     and make progress difficult later on.  Furthermore, the lack of
     right-of-way in epee can make transitions to the other two weapons
     difficult, if put off for too long.

1.6  How long does it take to become good?

     There is a saying that it takes two lifetimes to master fencing.  By
     the time anyone has come close to "mastering" the sport, they are
     long past their athletic prime.  Some may feel that this is a
     drawback to the sport, but most fencers see it as a great strength:
     fencing never becomes dull or routine; there are always new skills to
     master, and new grounds to conquer.

     A dedicated novice who practices twice per week will be ready to
     try low-level competition in 3-6 months.  Competition at this point
     should be viewed as a learning aid, not as a dedicated effort to win.

     Serious attempts at competing will be possible after 2-3 years,
     when the basic skills have been sufficiently mastered that the
     mind is free to consider strategy.

     A moderate level of skill (eg. C classification) can take 3-5 years
     of regular practice and competition.

     Penetration of the elite ranks (eg. world cup, A classification)
     demands three to five days per week of practice and competition, and
     usually at least 10-15 years of experience.

     Progress can be faster or slower, depending on the fencer's aptitude,
     attitude, and dedication.  Rapid progress normally requires at least
     three practices per week, and regular competition against superior
     fencers.

     The average world champion is in his late 20s to early 30s and began
     fencing as a child.

1.7  What qualities make a good fencer?

     There are many.

     On the athletic side, speed and endurance must rank foremost.  Other
     traits that can be exploited are strength, precision, and flexibility.
     Quick reaction time is extremely important.

     On the intellectual side, a good mind for strategy and tactics is
     essential.  The ability to quickly size up your opponent and adapt
     your style accordingly is essential.

     Psychologically, a fencer must be able to maintain focus, concentration,
     and emotional level-headedness under intense conditions of combat.
     Stress management, visualization, and relaxation techniques are all
     helpful to putting in winning performances.

     As far as body type goes, it is always possible to adapt your style
     to take advantage of your natural traits.  Even so, height seems to
     be useful in epee, but not necessarily in sabre.  Small or thin
     people are harder to hit in foil.  A long reach helps in epee, and
     long legs are an asset in foil.

     It should be noted that left handers usually enjoy a slight advantage,
     especially against inexperienced fencers.  This may account for the
     fact that lefties make up 15% of fencers, but half of FIE world
     champions.

1.8  How much does it cost to get involved in fencing?

     Beginner's dry fencing setup:  about $100 - $200 US
        Includes: cotton jacket, glove, dry weapon, mask

     FIE Competition setup:  about $500 - $1000 US
        Includes: FIE 800N jacket & britches, FIE 1600N mask, at least
           2 electric weapons, body cord, socks, glove, shoes, lame
           (foil & sabre only), sensor (sabre only).
        Note: while FIE-certified equipment is recommended both in
           terms of safety and quality, clothing costs can be as much
           as halved by purchasing regular cotton or synthetic knits.
           Do not expect such equipment to be accepted at national or
           international levels of competition, however.  Always wear
           a plastron when using non-homologated fencing jackets.

     Club costs vary, but are usually on the order of $50-$100 per year
     for each day per week of fencing.  Many clubs will provide or rent
     equipment to beginners.

1.9  How do I find a good fencing club?

     Start with your local Provincial or Divisional fencing association.
     If you don't know how to find them, contact your national fencing body
     (see section 3.1).  Your national body may maintain a list of known
     fencing clubs in the country.  Otherwise, your local association will
     be able to tell you about recognized clubs in your area.  Many
     universities and colleges also sponsor fencing clubs and teams that
     will often accept non-students as members.  You might also check out
     courses or camps offered by local community centers.  American fencers
     with WWW access can find a list of U.S. fencing clubs at
     http://sarah.rsip.lsu.edu/fencing/fencing.clubs.html

     Once you have a list of potential clubs, you will want to
     evaluate them and your needs.  Desirable qualities vary, depending
     on your skill level and what you want to get out of fencing.
     Ask the following questions when selecting your club (if you're not
     sure what you want, "yes" is a good answer to all these questions):
     Does it have an active beginners' program?  Are there enough fencers
     of your own skill level?  Are there some fencers above your skill
     level?  If you don't have your own equipment, does the club provide
     it?  Does the club have ample electric scoring boxes and reels?  Does
     the club emphasize the same weapons that you are interested in?  Do
     club members compete regularly?  Does the club have a master or
     coach?  Has he/she had many competitive successes either fencing or
     coaching?  Can you get individual lessons and instruction?  At no
     extra cost?

     Lastly, atmosphere is important to any social endeavour.  Choose a
     club that makes you feel comfortable and relaxed without sacrificing
     the athletic spirit that is essential to progress.

1.10 What kind of cross-training will help my fencing?

     The best training for fencing is fencing.  Fencing development is
     asymmetrical and few other sports use the same muscle groups, so
     this is a difficult question whose answer depends largely on what
     aspect of your training you really want to focus on.

     Cardiovascular fitness and leg strength always help, so anything that
     enhances these will be beneficial.  Cycling, swimming, and aerobics
     are good examples.  Running, sprinting, soccer, basketball, and
     similar sports can also be helpful, although some athletes dislike
     the stresses they put on the knees.  Racquet sports like tennis,
     badminton, squash, racquetball, and table tennis are also excellent,
     and will exercise your weapon arm in addition to your legs.

     Many martial arts have physical and mental demands that are similar
     to fencing, and can improve both your fitness and your intellectual
     approach to the sport.  Technique and tactics very rarely translate,
     however.

     Weight training can help, if done properly, but the athlete must
     remember that flexibility, speed, and technique are more important
     than raw strength.  Endurance training should have priority over
     bodybuilding.  Strength training can help, provided it doesn't
     compromise flexibility.  Most fencing weight-training programs
     concentrate heavily on leg and lower-body development.  Excessive
     weight training of the arms and upper body can adversely affect point
     control, according to some masters.  According to them, weighted
     wrist straps worn during regular practice are preferable.

     Some fencers maintain that juggling improves reactions, hand-eye
     coordination, and use of peripheral vision.

     Many coaches and fencers suggest occasional fencing or workouts with
     your opposite hand, both to improve skill and balance your muscular
     development.

1.11 How can I improve my technique without the help of a coach?

     It is very easy to acquire bad habits and poor technique if you do
     not have the guidance of a knowledgable fencing master, coach, or
     fellow fencer.  If you are serious about improving your fencing,
     quality coaching is always your best investment.  However, a
     disciplined fencer still has options if decent instruction is not
     available on a regular basis.

     Firstly, a solid knowledge of fencing theory and regulations is a
     must.  The freelance fencer should study the FIE Rules of
     Competition and a good fencing manual (see Section 3.3).  The
     fencer should test and apply this knowledge by presiding whenever
     possible.  An appreciation of good fencing style is also
     essential, so that the fencer can readily identify weaknesses in
     his own and other fencers' techniques.  Observation and comparison
     of skilled or accomplished fencers will develop this ability.
     Training videotapes and videotapes of high-level competitions (see
     Section 3.5) are also helpful in this regard.

     The freelance fencer must be open-minded and critical of his own
     technique, so that he can recognize problems before they develop
     into habits.  Discussion of his weaknesses with training opponents
     will help him clarify the areas that need work.  If possible, he
     should videotape his bouts and review them to spot defects in his
     tactics and technique.

     The fencer should seek out opponents who will strenuously test
     his weaknesses.  More experienced fencers, left-handers, those
     whose tactics are particularly effective, and even those with
     annoying (ie. difficult) styles should be courted on the practice
     strip.  When fencing less skilled opponents, the fencer should
     restrict his tactics to a small set that require practice, and
     resist the temptation to open up if he should start losing.

     The opportunity to participate in footwork and line drills should
     never be passed up.  When he can find an agreeable partner, the
     fencer can do more personalized drills to exercise his weak areas.
     (Of course it is courteous to indulge the needs of one's partner
     when he in turn works on his own training.)

     Lastly, the fencer should remain aware of his bout psychology and
     mental state when fencing, and try to cultivate the mindset that
     in his experience produces good fencing.

1.12 What is right-of-way?

     Right-of-way is the set of rules used to determine who is awarded the
     point when there is a double touch in foil or sabre (ie. both fencers
     hit each other in the same fencing time).  It is detailed in the
     FIE Rules of Competition, Articles 232-237 (foil) and 416-423
     (sabre).

     The core assumption behind right-of-way is that a fencing bout is
     always in one of three states:

         -- nothing significant is happening
         -- the fencers are conceiving and executing their actions
            simultaneously
         -- one fencer is controlling the action and tempo and the other
            is trying to gain control.

     Since no points will be scored in the first situation, we can ignore
     it.  In the second situation, the fencers' actions have equal
     significance, and it is impossible to award a touch.  Both touches
     will be annulled and the bout will be resumed where it was
     stopped.

     The third situation is the tricky one.  The controlling fencer has
     the right-of-way, and his hit has precedence over any hit from the
     other fencer.  The job of the director is to decide which
     fencer was NOT controlling the action, and annul his touch.  If he
     cannot decide, the director should abstain, annul BOTH hits, and
     resume the action where it left off.

     Control (and right-of-way) is taken whenever one fencer threatens
     the other with his blade.  A threat can be either an attack (see
     question 1.13), or a "point in line" that is established before
     the opponent attacks.

     Control (and right-of-way) is lost when an attack misses, falls
     short, is broken off, or is deflected away from the target by a
     parry or other engagement from the defender.  The defender has a
     split-second window of opportunity to return the attack
     (ie. riposte) before the attacker recovers; if he does so, he
     takes over right-of-way and the tables have turned.  Otherwise it
     is a toss-up; the first fencer to initiate an attack will sieze
     the right-of-way anew.

     The right-of-way relationships between common fencing actions are as
     follows:

     - derobement has right-of-way over attacks on the blade
     - attacks on the blade have right-of-way over the point in line
     - point in line has right-of-way over the attack
     - the simple attack has right-of-way over the stop-hit
     - the stop-hit has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack
     - the stop-hit in time has right-of-way over the compound attack
     - the riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack
     - the counter-riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the riposte
     - the remise of the attack has right-of-way over the delayed riposte

1.13 What constitutes an attack?

     According to Article 10 of the FIE rules of competition, "the
     attack is the initial offensive action made by extending the arm
     and continuously threatening the valid target of the opponent."

     A threatening weapon is normally interpreted to be one that will
     hit the opponent if nothing is done to prevent it.  In other
     words, a weapon threatens if it is moving towards the target in a
     smooth, unbroken trajectory.  This trajectory can be curved,
     especially if the attack is indirect, compound, or involves a
     cutting action.  Hesitations and movements of the blade away from
     the target will usually be perceived as a break in the attack or a
     preparation of the attack.

     One common misconception is that a straight or straightening arm is
     required to assert the attack.  While this was a traditional
     interpretation of the above rule, both the strict wording and
     prevailing modern interpretation do not require that the attacker's
     arm become straight or even nearly so.  It is sufficient if the arm
     extends, even just slightly, from its normal on-guard position.  A
     long arm is still good style, though, since it gives superior reach
     and clearly shows the fencer's intent.  While the attack can often
     be asserted with only slight extension, retraction of the arm will
     almost always be interpreted as a break in the attack.

     Another common misconception is that a point attack does not
     threaten unless the point is in line.  This is not generally true.
     An out-of-line point does threaten if it is moving towards the
     target on a smooth, unbroken trajectory.  The most common example
     of this is the coupe' (cut-over), in which the blade is pulled out
     of line to avoid the the opponent's blade, and then returned into
     line to finish the attack.  Coupe' takes the right-of-way
     immediately, even though the point is initially pulled out of
     line.  So-called "flicks", relatives of the coupe' that involve
     whipping the foible of the blade around parries or blocking body
     parts, can also take the right-of-way when the blade starts its
     final forward stroke.

     Many fencers are under the mistaken impression that a bent arm or
     out-of-line point constitutes a preparation, and therefore that
     they can rightfully attack into it.  If the bent arm is extending
     and the out-of-line point is moving towards the target, however,
     this assumption is usually false under modern fencing conventions.
     A successful attack on the preparation must clearly precede the
     opponent's initiation of the phrase or a break in his attack, or
     else arrive a fencing time ahead of his touch.

     Sabre fencers must also consider Article 417 of the Rules of
     Competition, which states when the attack must land relative to the
     footfalls of a lunge, advance-lunge, (and fleche, historically).
     Attacks that arrive after the prescribed footfall are deemed
     continuations, and do not have right-of-way over the
     counter-attack.  Sabre fencers must also remember that whip-over
     touches can sometimes be interpreted as remises, and not
     mal-parries.

1.14 What constitutes a parry?

     According to Article 10 of the FIE Rules of Competition, "the
     parry is the defensive action made with the weapon to prevent the
     attack from arriving".

     A successful parry deflects the threatening blade away from the
     target.  It is not sufficient merely to find or touch the
     opponent's blade;  the fencer must also exhibit control over it.
     If the attack continues without any replacement of the point and
     makes a touch, it retains the right-of-way ("mal-parry" by the
     defender).  If the attacker must replace the point into a
     threatening line before continuing, it is a remise (renewal of the
     attack) and does not have right-of-way over the riposte.

     A well-executed parry should take the foible of the attacker's
     blade with the forte and/or guard of the defender's.  This
     provides the greatest control over the opponent's blade.  In
     other cases the parry can still be seen as sufficient if the
     attacking blade is sufficiently deflected.  In ambiguous cases,
     however, the benefit of the doubt is usually given to the fencer
     who used his forte/guard.  For example, if a fencer attempts to
     parry using his foible on his opponent's forte, it will often be
     interpreted in the reverse sense (eg. counter-time parry by the
     attacker), since such an engagement does not normally result in
     much deflection of the attack.  A foible to foible parry could
     potentially be seen as a beat attack by the opposing fencer
     depending on the specifics of the action.

     At foil, the opponent's blade should not only be deflected away
     from the target, but away from off-target areas as well.  An
     attack that is deflected off the valid target but onto invalid
     target still retains right-of-way.

     At sabre, the opponent's blade need only be deflected away from
     valid target, since off-target touches do not stop the phrase.
     Cuts are considered parried if their forward movement is stopped
     by a block with the blade or guard.  Otherwise, sabre parries
     must be particularly clean and clear to avoid the possibility of
     whip-over touches.

     At epee, a good parry is simply any one that gains enough time
     for the riposte.  Opposition parries and prise-de-fer are commonly
     used, since they do not release the opponent's blade to allow a
     remise.

1.15 What are the new FIE rules for 1994/1995?

     EQUIPMENT:
    - In foil, the bib is on target as of Oct 1, 1995.
    - 800N underarm protector (plastron) is required in addition
      to the regular 800N jacket.
    - Clothing may be of different colours, but those on the body
      must be white or light-coloured.
    - Minimum width of the strip is now 1.5 metres.

     ETIQUETTE:
    - Salute of opponent, referee, and audience is mandatory at
      the start and end of the bout.

     BOUT FORMAT:
    - Coin flip to determine winner in the event of a tie shall be
      made at end of regulation time, and one additional minute
      shall be fenced.  The winner of the coin toss shall be
      recorded as the victor if the bout is not resolved by sudden
      death in the extra minute.
    - No more 1-minute warning, although fencers can request the
      time remaining at any normal halt in the action.
    - Fencers shall be placed at the en garde lines at the
      commencement of each 3-minute period in 15-touch elimination
      bouts.

     SCORING:
    - In sabre, simultaneous attacks that both arrive on the valid
      target do not result in any points being scored.
    - In sabre, any action in which the rear leg is crossed in
      front of the fore shall be penalized with a yellow card, or
      a red card if a yellow has already been given.  Any touch
      scored by the penalized fencer resulting from the cross-over
      action shall not be scored, although a properly-executed
      touch from the opponent is still valid.
    - In the team relay, the first pair of fencers fence to 5
      points or 4 minutes, whichever comes first.  The next pair
      continue from this score up to 10 points within 4 minutes,
      and so on up to a total score of 45 points.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Author: Morgan Burke ([e-mail])
Contributors: special thanks to Suman Palit, Guy Smith, Greg Dilworth,
    Kevin Taylor, Eric Anderson, Blaine Price, Steve Hick, Kim
    Moser, David Glasser, Bryan Mansfield, Donald Lane, Ann McBain,
    Hagen Lieffertz, Mark C. Orton, Mike Buckley, Dirk Goldar,
    Scott Holmes, Arild Dyrseth, David Airey, Renee Mcmeeken, Marc
    Walch, Eric Speicher, Anton Oskamp, Bernard Hunt, Francis Cordero,
    Kent Krumvieda, David Van Houten, John Crawford

(C) 1993, 1994, 1995 Morgan Burke
Permission is granted to copy and distribute all or part of this document
for non-profit purposes.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
End of rec.sport.fencing FAQ part I

Archive-name: sports/fencing-faq/part2
Last-modified: 1995/03/08
Version: 4.10

                           +-------------------+
                           |   F E N C I N G   |
                           +-------------------+

This is Part 2 of the 3-part rec.sport.fencing Frequently Asked
Questions list.  All parts can be found on the UseNet newsgroups
rec.sport.fencing, rec.answers, or news.answers.  Otherwise, consult
section 3.7 for information on finding archived copies of this
document.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

PART II:  EQUIPMENT

Equipment & Maintenance:

2.1   Clothing
2.1.1   FIE Homologated Clothing
2.1.2   Colours
2.2   Masks
2.2.1   Bibs
2.3   Shoes
2.3.1   Inserts
2.4   Gloves
2.5   Lame's
2.5.1   Repair
2.6   Armour
2.7   Grips
2.7.1   Traditional
2.7.2   Pistol
2.8   Blades
2.8.1   Maraging Blades
2.8.2   Tangs
2.8.3   Bends and Curvature
2.9   Guards
2.10  Points
2.11  Glue
2.12  Scoring Apparatus
2.12.1  Wireless Systems

Troubleshooting:

2.13  Foil
2.14  Epee
2.15  Sabre

NB: equipment merchants are listed in section 3.2.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

2.1  Clothing

     Fencing clothing includes the jacket, pants, plastron (underarm
     protector), and socks.  Some companies manufacture unitards
     (combined jacket and pants).  Inexpensive practice gear is
     fashioned of synthetics or heavy cotton, but competition clothing
     is required to pass an 800 N puncture test.

     Casual and beginner fencers can rely on cotton or synthetic
     jackets, but should consider using a plastron for extra
     protection.  Track pants or baseball knickers are also thrifty
     alternatives to genuine fencing clothing.

     Most jackets are left- or right-handed.  Women's jackets are not
     only cut differently, but have pockets for breast protectors.
     Ambidextrous (back-zip) jackets are available, but generally not
     with homologated fabrics.  Ambidextrous (double-sided) plastrons
     are available from some manufacturers.

     Knee-high sport socks (such as for soccer/football or baseball)
     can be purchased from most sporting goods stores.  Skin should
     not show between the socks and pant legs nor the cuff and glove
     of the weapon hand.  The trailing hand and back of the head
     should be the only areas of exposed skin on the fencer's body.

     2.1.1 FIE Homologated Clothing

     800N homologated clothing is fashioned from special fabrics such
     as kevlar, Startex, or ballistic nylon.  Some uniforms
     (especially older uniforms of kevlar construction) offer partial
     800N coverage in vital areas with lighter 350N fabrics used
     elsewhere.  Full-coverage 800N uniforms are now the norm in
     homologated clothing.

     As of 1 January 1995, the rules for FIE 'A' level competition
     demand full 800N homologated jacket and pants, plus an additional
     800N plastron.

     The CFF currently requires a minimum of 800/350N uniforms for all
     elite tournaments.  No plastron is required in conjunction with
     FIE clothing.

     Beginning October 1, 1995, the USFA will require a minimum of
     800/350N uniforms for all selection events and the Olympic
     Festival (this will include Cadet, Junior and Open NACs, Div. I
     National Championships, Junior Olympic Championships and U-19
     National Championships).  A regulation (non-FIE) plastron is
     required at all USFA events.

     800N clothing generally provides the highest degree of quality
     and protection available.  It is strongly recommended for serious
     competitors, and for anyone else concerned about their safety.
     Although considerably more expensive than practice gear, many
     fencers find it well worth the price.

     Kevlar clothing should be washed with mild detergent-free soap,
     and no bleach.  Hang dry away from sources of ultraviolet light
     (especially direct sunlight).  Store in a dark place (a closet or
     your fencing bag, for example).

     2.1.2 Colours

     Traditionally, fencing clothing is all white (for historical
     reasons that probably had to do with detection of hits), but the
     rules have recently been relaxed to allow "light" colours on the
     body.  Other colours may be permitted on the limbs.  The fencer's
     last name and country can appear on the back in block blue
     letters (or in the USA only, on the trailing leg); this is
     required in international competition.  National colours can be
     worn on an armband on the trailing arm.  Club or association
     badges can be stitched to the upper trailing arm.

2.2  Masks

     Foil masks should be well-insulated to prevent touches to the
     head from conducting to the lame' and registering as a touch.
     Electric sabre masks must be conductive, on the other hand, to
     allow head touches.  Epee masks should have bibs that cover the
     collar bones, while foil masks should not descend below the
     collar bones.

     Masks usually come in 3 or 5 sizes, depending on the
     manufacturer.  When sizes are numbered, 5 is usually the largest.
     Sizes are often indicated by the position of a metal tag or rivet
     on the rear portion of the mesh.

     Masks must pass a 12 kg punch test to be certified for
     competition.  Consider subjecting a used mask to such a test
     before using/purchasing it.  Older masks can have smaller bibs
     and weaker mesh (rated to 7 kg), making them less safe.  When
     punch testing a mask, depress the punch perpendicular to the mesh
     without wiggling it.  Do not apply more than the required amount
     of pressure.  Pay particular attention to parts of the mesh that
     have already been dented or bent, including the center crease
     line.  Unnatural dents in the mesh can and should be pushed or
     hammered out.

     2.2.1 Bibs

     The best masks have FIE homologated bibs to protect the throat,
     and are required in high-level competition.  1600N bibs are
     standard in FIE competition as of 1 January 1995.  The CFF
     requires 800N bibs as a minimum in elite competition, while the
     USFA has no FIE bib requirement.

     As of October 1, 1995, the bib is part of the valid foil target.
     Enforcement of this rule at first should only be expected at
     high-level international competitions.  The CFF and USFA have no
     immediate plans to implement this rule.  It is not clear at
     present just how equipment manufacturers will handle this change.
     Metallic sleeves for the bibs of older masks will probably become
     available, attached with velcro or something similar.

2.3  Shoes

     Fencing shoes are ideal, but often expensive.  They
     characteristically have leather "skid pads" on the inside front
     of the shoe, and a sole that wraps back over the heel.  Adidas
     makes low- and high-top models that are known for their quality,
     but can be quite expensive and hard to find in North America.
     Cheaper brands from Eastern Europe and China are also available.

     Lightweight indoor court shoes (such as for squash, badminton,
     racquetball, or volleyball) make excellent low-cost alternatives.
     Asics, Hi-Tec, Reebok, Etonic, and Adidas have all been
     recommended by rec.sport.fencing readers for manufacturing models
     that are useful for fencing.

     Some fencers claim that wrestling shoes can be adapted for
     fencing, although they may not offer much support.  Many outdoor
     athletic shoes and running shoes are too bulky or heavy for
     fencing, or provide inadequate lateral stability.

     2.3.1  Inserts

     Hard heel cups are widely used to absorb the impact of lunges.
     They are integrated into many models of fencing shoe, but can be
     purchased separately from specialty athletic and orthopedics
     stores for other shoes.  Softer rubber (eg. Sorbothane) inserts
     are also commonly used to provide extra cushioning or prevent
     chronic injuries from flaring.

2.4  Gloves

     Gloves should have leather or equivalent construction in the
     fingers and palm, have a long cuff to cover the sleeve opening,
     and have an opening for the bodywire.  They should not fit too
     snugly, or they will be more susceptable to tearing.  Varying
     degrees of padding are available in the back of the hand and
     fingers, which can be useful for epee and sabre fencers.

     Gloves can deteriorate rapidly under heavy use, often lasting a
     single season or less.  Some gloves are washable; saddle soap or
     other leather treatment can extend the lives of other gloves
     somewhat.

     Economical alternatives to genuine fencing gloves include
     precision welding gloves, motorcycle gloves, and even common
     workman's gloves available at any hardware store, provided the
     fingers and palm are unpadded and supple enough to maintain the
     feel of the blade.  It may be prudent to hand-stitch a longer
     gauntlet onto the cuff, if the normal one doesn't cover the
     sleeve opening.  In all these cases, a small wire opening may
     have to be cut into the wrist.

2.5  Lame's

     The highest quality ones are made of stainless steel, which is
     much more corrosion resistant than copper.  Your lame' should
     come to your hip bones, and be form-fitting but not too tight.
     Most lame's come in right and left-handed versions, but
     ambidextrous (back-zip) versions are also available and sometimes
     have higher hips.

     Careful rinsing of your lame' in lukewarm water following a
     tournament or rigourous practice will wash out most of the sweat
     and salts that will damage your lame'.  Old sweat turns alkaline
     and can be quite damaging to the lame' fabric.  The salt crystals
     left behind from dried sweat can also be abrasive and conducive
     to corrosion.

     Occasional handwashing in lukewarm water with a mild detergent
     (eg.  Woolite or dishsoap) and a small amount of ammonia is an
     excellent way of cleaning your lame' and prolonging its life.
     Some fencers recommend neutralizing the alkaline deposits in the
     lame' with lemon juice added to the bath (about 2 lemons worth).

     Rinse your lame' after washing and hang dry on a wooden or
     plastic hanger.  Avoid folding, crumpling, wringing, or abrading
     it.  All of these will fatigue the metallic threads in the
     fabric.

     Similar care should be taken with sabre cuffs and mask bibs.

     2.5.1  Repair

     Lame's can go dead for several reasons, including high electric
     resistance due to oxidation and corrosion (usually accompanied by
     visible discolouration), broken metal fibres, or tears in the
     fabric.

     High-resistance areas that are due to oxidation can often be
     temporarily resucitated by moistening them with water.  As the
     moisture soaks up salts and other deposits in the fabric,
     conductivity will increase enough for the lame' to pass the
     weapon check.  Sweat from vigourous fencing will have the same
     effect.

     Small dead spots be "field-repaired" with a paper stapler or
     metallic marker.

     Larger dead areas and tears in the fabric can only be reliably
     repaired by stitching new lame' fabric over the affected areas.
     The fabric from the back of one dead lame' can be used to repair
     the front of another.

2.6  Armour

     Padded jackets, plastrons, and gloves are available to take the
     sting out of hard hits.  Most coaches will use special
     heavily-padded jackets or sleeves when giving lessons, but these
     are not intended for competitive use.

     Some masks have extra coverage at the back of the head to protect
     against whip-overs.  Elbow protectors are also commonly worn by
     sabreurs.

     Athletic cups are important for men, and breast protectors are
     essential for women.  The latter can take the form of individual
     bowls to cover each breast, or more complete full-chest
     protectors that cover the ribs up to the collarbone.

2.7  Grips

     For foil and epee, there are a wide variety of grips
     available that fall into two broad categories, traditional and
     pistol.  Sabre grips are all fundamentally of the same design.

     Most grips are fashioned of aluminum or plastic; the latter,
     while lighter, are also much more fragile and prone to cracking.
     Some grips are insulated with a layer of enamel (colour coded by
     size), and many traditional grips are surfaced with leather,
     rubber, or twine.

     2.7.1  Traditional

     These are the French, Italian, and Spanish grips.  All consist of
     a relatively simple handle, a large, exposed pommel, and in the
     case of the Italian and Spanish grips, crossbars or similar
     prongs for extra grip.

     The French grip is the simplest of all fencing grips in
     construction, and the most economical.  It emphasizes finger
     control over strength, and provides considerable flexibility.  It
     is the most common grip used by novices.

     The Italian grip is noted for its strength, but is fairly rare,
     partially because it requires a special tang on blades that are
     used with it.  It is the only ambidextrous fencing grip.  Italian
     grips are often equipped with a martingale (wrist strap).

     The Spanish grip is a compromise between the French and Italian
     grips, but is illegal in modern fencing competition, due to a
     perceived safety hazard in not being able to release the weapon
     easily.  There are modern variants of the Spanish grip that do
     not use the French pommel, but their legality is unclear.

     2.7.2  Pistol

     These are modern, orthopedic grips, shaped vaguely like a pistol,
     but still grasped in the traditional way.  They provide a
     pronounced strength advantage over the traditional grips, but
     tend to encourage wrist movement over finger movement.  Pistol
     grips all have the features of a large protuberance below the
     tang for the aids to grasp, a curved prong above the tang that
     fits in the crook of the thumb, and a large prong that extends
     along the inside of the wrist.  Some varieties (eg. Visconti,
     German) are heavily sculpted for the fingers, while others
     (eg. Belgian, Russian) are relatively smooth but may provide an
     extra prong for the middle finger (Belgian only).

2.8  Blades

     There are a large number of variables to consider when shopping
     for blades, including stiffness, length, durability, flex point,
     weight, balance, corrosion resistance, and (of course) price.

     Stiff blades provide better point control, but less
     "flickability".  A flex point less than 1/3 of the length from
     the tip indicates a strong middle, but may also indicate a whippy
     or less durable foible.  A lower flex point may make the blade
     feel spongy, slow, or tip-heavy, but may also indicate a stronger
     foible that is more durable and less easily dominated.  Some
     brands of blades (eg. Allstar) are sold in different flexibility
     grades.

     Blades generally come in 5 sizes, 5 being the longest (90 cm for
     foil and epee) and by far the most common.  Shorter blades are
     somewhat lighter and quicker of action, and can be useful for
     children, fencers who prefer the lighter balance, or those who
     often provoke infighting in which a long blade can be
     disadvantageous.

     Cheap blades (including some Eastern European and Chinese brands)
     are typically not very durable or of poor temper, being inclined
     to snap, bend, and rust easily.  Fencers who are gentle with
     their blades and clean, sand, or oil them regularly may
     nevertheless find them to be a good value.

     Blades typically break at the flex point in the foible.  Less
     commonly the tips will break off, or the tang will snap at the
     base of the blade (this latter failure mode is fairly common in
     sabre).  Other serious modes of failure include sharp bends in
     the middle of the blade and S-bends in the foible, both of which
     are difficult to remove and will rapidly lead to fatiguing and
     eventual breaking of the blade.

     2.8.1 Maraging Blades

     Maraging steel foil blades have a reputation for lasting
     considerably longer than regular steel blades, and are supposed
     to break more cleanly.  They are mandatory in many high-level
     competitions.  Many fencers find them a superior value, in spite
     of their high price.  As they vary in character in the same way
     as regular blades, similar caution should be exercised when
     purchasing them.

     Maraging epee blades are also available, although there are
     alternative steels that have also received FIE certification.

     Maraging sabre blades do not seem to be so well received, and are
     not required for FIE competition.

     2.8.2  Tangs

     The length and thread of the tang may be an issue; some blades
     are threaded for French or pistol grips only, and some blades
     with French grip tangs require an extra fitting for the thread.
     Italian grips may require a special tang, since part of it is
     exposed in the hilt.  Metric 6x1 threading is standard, but not
     universal (esp. in the USA, where a 12x24 thread may be
     encountered); dies to re-thread the tang can be found at most
     hardware stores.  If the tang must be cut to fit the grip, be
     very careful to leave enough thread to screw on the pommel nut.
     Tangs often have to be filed down to fit in tight grips.

     Tangs are attached by an exterior pommel on traditional grips, or
     by a pommel nut in pistol grips.  Pommel nuts are typically
     fitted for a 6mm Allen wrench or hex key, 8mm socket wrench, or a
     standard screwdriver.

     2.8.3  Bends and Curvature

     Many foil and epee fencers prefer a bend at the join of the tang
     and blade, so that the blade points slightly inside when held in
     sixte.  Such a bend is best applied with a strong vise to avoid
     bowing the tang.  Some fencers prefer to put this bend into the
     forte of the blade instead.  Be gentle; blades will snap if
     handled with too much force.

     A gentle curve in the foible of the blade is also common, and
     helps to square the point against oblique surfaces.  Such a bend
     must be smooth and gradual.  Sharp kinks are prohibited.  Foible
     bends are best worked into the blade using the sole of one's shoe
     and the floor.

     For foil and epee, the total curvature of the blade is measured
     at the widest separation between the blade and an imaginary line
     drawn between the the join of the forte and tang and the join of
     the foible and barrel.  The blade can be laid across a flat
     surface such as a table top to measure the arch.  Epees must not
     rise more than 1 cm above the surface, while foils are allowed 2
     cm.  If the objective is to angle the point to hit oblique
     surfaces better, this is a significant amount of curvature.  If
     the objective is to "hook" the blade around blocking parries or
     body parts, however, these limits are fairly restrictive.

     Remember that the wire groove on epee and foil blades goes on the
     top (thumb side) of the blade, and the outside of the blade
     curvature.

     Sabre curvature is handled differently, it being the deflection
     of the point from the line of the forte.  4 cm is all that is
     tolerated.

2.9  Guards

     Foil guards vary mostly in diameter, being between 9.5 and 12 cm
     across.  The largest guards (eg. Negrini) may fail the weapon
     guage check if they are dented or misshapen.

     Epee guards are almost always the maximum diameter (13.5 cm) for
     best protection, although they can vary considerably in shape,
     depth (3 - 5.5 cm), weight, and eccentricity (up to 3.5 cm off of
     center).

     "Mini epee" guards are available from some vendors, but they are
     recommended only for Pentathletes.

     Sabre guards come in left- and right-handed versions (the outside
     of the guard being larger).

2.10 Points

     Many fencers have experienced trouble mixing their points,
     barrels, and wires.  They are best used in matched sets.

     Points are regularly tested in competition.  Both foil and epee
     points must pass a weight test, by lifting a mass (500g for foil;
     750g for epee) after the point is depressed.  In addition, epees
     must pass two shim tests, the first to make sure that there is at
     least 1.5 mm of travel in the tip, and the second to make sure
     that the point doesn't light until the last 0.5 mm.

     If the weight test fails, the main spring can be replaced or made
     heavier by lightly stretching it.  If the fencer thinks his point
     is too heavy, the spring can be replaced, compressed, or softened
     by heating one end in a flame.

     If the epee 0.5 mm shim test fails, the secondary contact spring
     is too long.  It should be adjusted or compressed.  If the 1.5 mm
     shim test fails, your point may be improperly set up, or may be
     mismatched with the barrel.

     Epee points work by closing the circuit between the two blade
     wires when they are depressed.  Dirty or faulty points will
     normally cause the weapon to fail to register touches.  Foil
     points work in the opposite manner, by opening a closed circuit
     between the blade wire and blade.  Dirty or faulty points will
     usually cause the weapon to produce spurious off-target lights.
     See Troubleshooting (sections 2.13, 2.14), below.

2.11 Glue

     Recycled blades must be cleaned before they are re-wired.
     Solvents such as acetone can help, but 10 minutes with a utility
     knife (foil) or wire brush (epee) to remove all traces of glue
     residue from the wire groove also works.  New blades sometimes
     require a small amount of cleaning as well, to remove grease and
     grit from the machining process.

     Popular wiring glues include Duco cement, 5-minute epoxy, and
     cyanoacrylate glues (eg. super-glue).  Cleaning and gluing
     techniques will vary depending on your choice.  Thin,
     quick-drying glues such as cyanoacrylates are best put down over
     top of the wire as the wire is held in the groove.  If you use a
     thicker glue such as epoxy, you can carefully prepare one surface
     first.  For foil wires, coat the wire in glue, and then gently
     pull it tight and lay it into the groove.  For epees you can
     alternatively lay a bed of glue down before setting the wire in
     the groove, then make a second run of glue over the wire to seal
     it in place.  Top glue the blade, and let it dry while the blade
     is held in a flexed position with the point in the air.

     An acetone bath for cleaning blades can be constructed from a
     length of copper tubing, sealed at one end.  Fill with acetone,
     drop in your blades, and let soak overnight.

     A blade-bowing tool for holding blades flexed while the glue
     dries can be constructed from a length of cord or chain attached
     to some small cups (film cannisters work well).  Place the cups
     over either end of the blade, and the tension of the cord will
     hold the blade bent for as long as you need it.  Alternatively,
     stand the blade up with the point bent under the rim of a counter
     or table.

2.12 Scoring Apparatus

     The scoring apparatus consists of the reels, floor wires, and
     indicator box, and optionally a timer and scoring tower(s).  In
     sabre, the capteur sensors can also be considered part of the
     scoring apparatus, since they are provided by the tournament
     organizers.

     Modern foil scoring boxes should display only a coloured light or
     a white light for each fencer.  Older boxes (or ones with older
     firmware) may display both if an off-target touch is immediately
     followed by an on-target touch.

     It is possible to defeat the foil scoring circuit by grounding
     your own weapon to your lame' (your opponent's touches will fail
     to register, but yours will register).  This is illegal, and
     scoring boxes must be equipped with a grounding light to detect
     when fencers do this.  Some newer boxes have an anti-fraud
     feature to eliminate this hazard and allow touches to be scored
     in spite of grounding.  Boxes without such an anti-fraud circuit
     are useful for detecting dead spots on lame's (ground the lame',
     and then poke the opponent in various locations; white lights
     indicate a dead spot).

     Many sabre scoring boxes come with a variety of special options
     or programs for variations on the standard rules;  for example,
     fencing without sensors, or with modified whipover timeouts.

     Reels are typically portable, spring-wound devices, although some
     salles have permanent overhead installations involving pulleys
     and bungee cords.  The overhead variety is normally more
     reliable, since it has fewer mechanics and no electrical brushes.

     2.12.1  Wireless Systems

     Wireless scoring systems are currently prohibited, largely due to
     the difficulties in distinguishing between real and forged
     signals.  Various modern electronics technologies hold the
     promise of circumventing these problems, and some wireless
     designs are currently in development.

     Simple "buzzboxes", compact battery-powered devices that signal
     touches with a light or buzzer, are available from various
     sources, but have very limited functionality.  For example, epee
     buzzboxes do not detect bell or ground hits, and foil buzzboxes
     cannot distinguish between on- and off-target touches.  There are
     no sabre buzzboxes.

2.13 Foil Troubleshooting

     Weapon fails weight test.
     1)    The spring is too soft.  Get a new spring or stretch the old
        one.
     2)    Friction between the barrel and point is overwhelming the
        spring.  Clean the inside of the barrel, or replace the entire
        tip if the barrel or point is bent/warped.

     Hitting the strip produces a light.
     1)    The strip is not grounded, or is dirty/corroded.
     2) The exterior of the foil point is dirty/corroded.

     Valid touch produces a white light.
     1) Opponent's lame' is not connected.
     2) Opponent's body wire is broken.  Diagnose by testing at the
        lame' clip and at the reel wire connection.
     3) Opponent's lame' has a dead spot.  With some boxes, dead spots
        can be diagnosed by grounding the fencer's weapon to his
        suspect lame', and then probing the lame' with the other
        fencer's weapon.  This does not work with boxes that have an
        anti-fraud feature.
     4) Your foil body wire polarity is reversed.  Disassemble and
        reverse the connections.
     5) The exterior of the foil point is dirty/corroded.
     6) Foil circuit is breaking just before the touch (see below).

     Foil produces white lights when the tip is not depressed.
     1) The tip is jammed shut.  Spin the point or slap on the floor to
        free it.
     2) Grit in the tip is breaking the circuit.  Spin the point or
        slap on the floor to dislodge the grit.
     3) The barrel is loose.  Tighten carefully with pliers.
     4) The foil wire is broken.  If the lights are intermittent, try
        flexing the blade to trigger the white lights; success means
        the blade wire is probably broken.  If the lights are
        triggered by shaking the blade, the point or clip may be to
        blame.
     5) The circuit is breaking at the clip.  Check that the body cord
        is held securely by the clip.
     6) The body wire is broken.  Diagnose by shorting the two
        connections on the weapon end of the body wire.  If the lights
        continue, the body wire or reel is at fault.  Short the two
        close prongs at the other end of the body wire;  if the lights
        stop, the body wire is to blame.  If not see (7).
     7) The scoring apparatus is broken.  The connections, reel wire,
        reel contacts, floor wire, or scoring box may be at fault.
        Short the same wires as in (6) at the various points of
        connection to successively eliminate each.
     8) The guard is loose.  Tighten the pommel or pommel nut.

     Foil produces coloured lights when the tip is not depressed but
     is in contact with the opponent's lame'.
     1) The circuit is broken;  see previous problem.
     2) The circuit is breaking when the blade flexes as it contacts
        the lame' or when the point is jarred.  Could be caused by
        grit in the tip, a broken wire whose ends normally remain in
        contact, or a separated wire and cup.

     There is no light when a touch is made.
     1) You are not hitting properly.
     2) Friction between the barrel and point is preventing the
        point from depressing.  Slap on the floor to loosen it;
        otherwise clean or replace the tip.
     3) Spring is too heavy.  Compress it or heat one end with a
        match.
     4) Opponent is grounding his weapon to his lame'.  Tell him to
        stop;  it's illegal.
     5) You are grounding your own foil to your opponent's lame'.
        Improve the insulation on your foible (15 cm is required).
     6) The foil wire is shorting to the weapon.  Check the integrity
        of the insulation along the wire and beneath the cushion.
        Also make sure no wire ends at the clip are touching the rest
        of the weapon.
     7) The scoring box is on the wrong weapon setting.
     8) There is a short in your body wire.  If there are no lights
        when the weapon is unplugged, but there are lights when the
        body wire is unplugged from the reel, the body wire is at
        fault.
     9) There is a short in the scoring apparatus.  If there are no
        lights when the fencer unplugs from the reel, this is the
        problem.  It can be isolated by successively unplugging
        connections to the box.

     Wrong lights go off when a touch is made.
     1) The scoring box is on the wrong weapon setting.

2.14 Epee Troubleshooting

     Weapon fails weight test.
     1) The main spring is too soft.  Get a new spring or stretch the
        old one.
     2)    Friction between the barrel and point is overwhelming the
        spring.  Clean the inside of the barrel, or replace the entire
        tip if the barrel or point is bent/warped.

     Weapon fails shim tests.
     1)    The contact spring is too long.  Adjust or compress it.
     2) Point and barrel are mismatched.  Replace.

     Hitting the strip produces a light.
     1)    The strip is not grounded, or is dirty/corroded.
     2)    The tip is dirty/corroded.

     A touch to the guard produces a light.
     1) The guard is dirty/corroded.
     2) The exterior of the tip is dirty/corroded.
     3) The body wire (in particular the ground) is faulty (test
        against the ground pin of the body cord; if the lights
        continue, the body wire or reel is at fault).
     4) The contact between the clip and weapon is faulty or corroded.
     5) The guard is loose.
     6) The ground pin socket is loose in the weapon clip.

     Epee produces lights when the tip is not depressed.
     1) The tip is jammed shut.  Slap on the floor to free it.
     2) Grit in the tip is shorting the circuit.  Slap on the floor to
        dislodge the grit, or disassemble and clean the point.
     3) The blade wires are shorting to each other.  Check the
        insulation, especially inside the guard.
     4) The scoring box is on the wrong weapon setting.

     There is no light when a touch is made.
     1) You are not hitting properly.
     2) Friction between the barrel and point is preventing the point
        from depressing.  Slap on the floor to loosen it; otherwise
        clean or replace the tip.
     3) Main spring is too heavy.  Compress it or heat one end with a
        match.
     4) Contact spring is too short.  Adjust or stretch it.
     5) Point contacts are dirty/corroded.
     6) The epee wire is broken.  Re-wire the blade.
     7) The epee wire is shorting to the weapon.
     8) Something has come unplugged between you and the box.
     9) The wires are improperly fastened to the weapon clip.
     10) The body wire is broken.
     11) The reel or floor wire is broken.
     12) The scoring box is on the wrong weapon setting.

2.15 Sabre Troubleshooting

     Box displays white lights.
     1) The sensor is malfunctioning or jammed.
     2) The wire in the sabre is broken, or not fastened securely.
     3) The mounting bracket for the sensor is loose.
     4) The body wire is loose in the socket.
     5) The body wire is broken.  Switch to foil setting, and diagnose
        as for foil.
     6) The scoring apparatus is broken.  Switch to foil setting and
        diagnose as for foil.

     There is no light when a touch is made.
     1) You are not hitting hard enough.
     2) The opponent's lame' has dead spots.
     3) The opponent's lame' or mask is not connected.
     4) The sensor is malfunctioning.
     5) The clip is not properly wired to the weapon.
     6) The opponent's body wire is broken.
     7) There is a break in the scoring apparatus on the opponent's
        side.  This may be in the reel, floor cable, or scoring box.
     8) There is a short in the body wire.  Switch to foil setting and
        diagnose as for foil.
     9) There is a short in the scoring apparatus.  Switch to foil
        setting and diagnose as for foil.

     Box indicates a touch following weapon contact or a parry.
     1) You aren't parrying well enough.
     2) The weapon is shorting to the lame'.  Insulate the edges of
        the guard and the pommel, or hold the weapon in such a way as
        to prevent the contact.

     Wrong lights go off when a touch is made.
     1) The scoring box is on the wrong weapon setting.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Author: Morgan Burke ([e-mail])
Contributors: special thanks to Suman Palit, Guy Smith, Greg Dilworth,
    Kevin Taylor, Eric Anderson, Blaine Price, Steve Hick, Kim
    Moser, David Glasser, Bryan Mansfield, Donald Lane, Ann McBain,
    Hagen Lieffertz, Mark C. Orton, Mike Buckley, Dirk Goldar,
    Scott Holmes, Arild Dyrseth, David Airey, Renee Mcmeeken, Marc
    Walch, Eric Speicher, Anton Oskamp, Bernard Hunt, Francis Cordero,
    Kent Krumvieda, David Van Houten, John Crawford

(C) 1993, 1994, 1995 Morgan Burke
Permission is granted to copy and distribute all or part of this document
for non-profit purposes.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
End of rec.sport.fencing FAQ part II

Archive-name: sports/fencing-faq/part3
Last-modified: 1995/03/08
Version: 4.10

                           +-------------------+
                           |   F E N C I N G   |
                           +-------------------+

This is Part III of the 3-part rec.sport.fencing Frequently Asked
Questions list.  All parts can be found on the UseNet newsgroups
rec.sport.fencing, rec.answers, or news.answers.  Otherwise, consult
section 3.7 for information on finding archived copies of this
document.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

PART III:  REFERENCES

3.1 Fencing organizations
3.2 Equipment suppliers & outfitters                *** revised
3.3 Fencing Books
3.4 Fencing Films
3.5 Fencing Videos
3.6 Fencing Software
3.7 Fencing Online                        *** revised
3.8 Glossary of terms

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

3.1 Fencing Organizations

    Federation Internationale d'Escrime
    32, Rue La Boetie
    75008 Paris, France

    AUSTRIA:
    Federation d'Escrime de l'Autriche
    Organizationskomitee der Fecht
    Union Modling
    Herzfeldercasse - 20
    A2351 Wr. Neudorf, Austria
    TEL: [phone]

    BRITAIN:
    Amateur Fencing Association
    1 Barons Gate
    33-35 Rothschild Road
    London W4 5HT
    TEL: [phone]

    CANADA:
    Canadian Fencing Federation
    1600 Prom. James Naismith Drive
    Gloucester, ON   K1B 5N4
    TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]
    BBS: [phone]

    GERMANY:
    Deutsche Fechter Bund Schermband
    AM Neuen Lindenhof - 2
    5300 Bonn, Germany
    TEL: [phone]

    NETHERLANDS:
    Koninklijke Nederlandse Algemene Schermbond
    POBox 18690
    2502 ER  The Hague
    The Netherlands
    TEL/FAX: ++31 70 3211 705

    NORWAY:
    Norges Fekteforbund
    Hauger skolevei 1,
    13351 RUD, Norway
    TEL: [phone]

    UNITED STATES:
    United States Fencing Association
    One Olympic Plaza
    Colorado Springs, CO 80909-5774
    TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]

    Contact your national fencing body to get the addresses and phone
    numbers of your local/provincial/divisional fencing associations.

3.2 Equipment suppliers & outfitters

    Many of the following businesses will mail you a catalogue if
    requested.  This FAQ does not endorse any of these companies.

    AUSTRALIA:

    Aladdin Sports             Fentec Sports
    46 Hosken Street             48 Clara St
    North Balwyn 3104             Camp Hill QLD 4158
    TEL: [phone]             TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]
    EMAIL: [e-mail]

    Fencing International Equipment
    Angelo Santangelo, Maestro of Arms
    47 Dalrymple Avenue,
    Chatswood, NSW, 2067
    TEL: [phone]

    BRITAIN:

    Blades                               Leon Paul
    35 Edinburgh Drive                   14 New North Street
    Staines, Middlesex TW18 1PJ          London WC1N 3PW
    TEL: [phone]                    TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]                    FAX: [phone]

    Gladiators                           Merlin Enterprises
    101 High Street              24 Prices Lane
    Evesham, Worcestershire              York, YO2 1AL
    WR11 4DN                     TEL/FAX: [phone]
    TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]

    Sporteq                 Duellist Enterprises
    608 Ringwood Road             The Colonnades,
    Poole, Dorset             82 Bishops Bridge Road,
    BH12 4LY                 London, W2 6BB
    TEL: [phone] or 0202 747919      TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]

    White Knights
    Freepost DL780
    Spennymoor
    Co. Durham
    DL16 6BR
    TEL: [phone] or 0388 815491
    FAX: [phone]
    EMAIL: [e-mail]

    CANADA:

    Fencing Equipment of Canada         Allstar (Herb Obst Agency)
    2407 Bayview Place                 CP 788 Succursdale NDG
    Calgary, Alberta T2V 0L6           Montreal, Quebec H4A 3S2
    TEL: [phone]                TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]                FAX: [phone]
                                       Agents:
    Prieur-PBT                         Halifax: Barbara Daniel
    Vijay Prasad                                [phone]
    383 Tamarack Dr.                   Winnipeg: Milton Himsl
    Waterloo, Ontario N2L 4G7                    [phone]
    TEL: [phone]                Ottawa: Ron Millette
    FAX: [phone]                        [phone]
                                       Saskatoon: Dennis Duncan
    Riposte PBT                                   [phone]
    Tibor & Victor Abraham             Vancouver: Zbig Pietrusinski
    113 Iona Ave.                                 [phone]
    Hamilton, Ontario L8S 2L8
    TEL: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]

    FRANCE:

    Prieur                 Soudet
    18 rue Nemours             31 Boulevard Voltaire
    Paris, 11e                 Paris, 11e
    TEL: [phone]             TEL: [phone]

    GERMANY:

    Uhlmann Fecht-Sport                  Allstar Fecht-Center
    Uhlandstrasse 12                     Carl-Zeiss Strasse 61
    88471 Laupheim                       72700 Reutlingen
    Deutschland                          Deutschland

    Fecht-Sport H.Lieffertz
    Eibenweg 3
    D-50767 Cologne
    Deutschland
    TEL/FAX: [phone]
    EMAIL: [e-mail]

    USA:

    Triplette Competiton Arms            Blade Fencing Equipment, Inc.
    162 W. Pine St.                      212 West 15th St.
    Mt Airy, NC 27030                    NY, NY 10011
    TEL: [phone]                  TEL: [phone]
                                         FAX: [phone]
    George Santelli, Inc.
    465 South Dean St.                   American Fencers Supply
    Englewood, NJ 07631                  1180 Folsom St.
    TEL: [phone]                  San Francisco, CA 94103
                                         TEL: [phone]
    Colonial Distributing
       Fencing Equipment                 Uhlmann International
    PO Box 636                           Wolf Finck, Pres. USA Headquarters
    Cedarburg, Wisconsin 53012           330 N. Fayette Drive
    TEL: [phone]                  Fayetteville, GA 30214
    FAX: [phone]                  TEL: [phone]

    The Fencing Post                     Zivkovic Modern Fencing Equipment
    2543 Monticello Way                  77 Arnold Road
    Santa Clara, CA 95051                Wellesley Hills, MA 02181
    TEL: [phone]             TEL: [phone]

    Cheris Fencing Supply                Southern California Fencers Equipment
    5818 East Colfax Avenue              16131 Valerio Street
    Denver, CO  80220                    Van Nuys, CA   91406
    TEL: [phone]                  TEL: [phone]
         1-800-433-6232                  FAX: [phone]
    FAX: [phone]                  Hours: 4:30pm - 7:30pm Wed & Thurs

    SCORING MACHINES ONLY:

    Commodore Systems                    Fencing Technologies
    (Saber 3-weapon box)                 P.O. Box 16181
    P.O. Box 22992                       Minneapolis, MN, 55416
    Nashville, TN 37202                  TEL/FAX: [phone]
    TEL: [phone]                  EMAIL: [e-mail]
         [phone]
    FAX: [phone]
    EMAIL: [e-mail]

3.3 Fencing Books

    This list has been compiled from suggestions by rec.sport.fencing
    readers, and is far from complete.

    Alaux, Modern Fencing (Charles Scribner, ?)
    Anderson, All About Fencing (Arco, 1970)
    Angelo, The School of Fencing (Land's End Press, 1971)
    Beke & Polgar, The Methodology of Sabre Fencing (Corvina Press, 1963)
    Bowers, Foil Fencing 7th Ed. (Brown & Benchmark, 1993)
    Campos, The Art of Fencing (Vantage Press, 1988)
    Castello, The Theory and Practice of Fencing (Charles Scribner, 1933)
    Castello, Fencing (Ronald Press, 1962)
    Castle, The Schools and Masters of Fence (Arms & Armour Press, 1969)
    Crosnier, Fencing with the Foil (Faber & Faber, 1951)
    Curry, The Fencing Book (?, 1984)
    FIE, Rules of Competition (AFA, CFF, USFA, etc., every year)
    de Beaumont, Fencing: Ancient Art and Modern Sport (?, ?)
    Garret, Kaidanov, & Pezza, Foil, Sabre, and Epee Fencing (Penn State, 1994)
    Gaugler, Fencing Everyone (Hunter, 1987)
    Hutton, The Sword and the Centuries (Charles E. Tuttle, 1980)
    Lukovich, Electric Foil Fencing (Corvina Press, 1971)
    Lukovich, Fencing (Corvina Press, 1986)
    Morton, A-Z of Fencing (Queen Anne, 1988)
    Nadi, On Fencing (G.P. Putnam, 1943) (Laureate Press, 1994)
    Palffy-Alpar, Sword and Masque (FA Davis, 1967)
    Pitman, Fencing, Techniques of Foil, Epee, and Sabre (Crowood, 1988)
    Manley, Compleate Fencing (Doubleday, 198?)
    Selberg, Foil (Addison-Wesley, 1976)
    Selberg, Revised Foil (Spotted Dog Press, 1993?)
    Simmons and Morton, Start Fencing (Sportman's Press, 1989)
    Simonian, Basic Foil Fencing 2nd Ed. (Kendall/Hunt, 1982)
    Wyrick, Foil Fencing (W.B. Sanders, 1971)

3.4 Fencing Films

    The following films involve some amount of swordfighting or
    swashbuckling.  They are rated on a four-star system, which is a
    general critics' opinion of the film as a whole, not an indicator of
    the quality or quantity of the film's fencing.  Major actors and
    occasionally the director (denoted by a '!') are named.  Films with
    2 stars or less have been omitted, as have recent films that have not
    yet been widely released or reviewed.

    The Adventures of Don Juan (1949, Errol Flynn, Raymond Burr, ***)
    The Adventures of Robin Hood (1938, Errol Flynn, Basil Rathbone, ****)
    Against All Flags (1952, Errol Flynn, Anthony Quinn, **1/2)
    Barry Lyndon (1975, Ryan O'Neal, Patrick Magee, !Stanley Kubrick, ***1/2)
    Black Arrow (1985, Oliver Reed, **1/2)
    Black Pirate (1926, Douglas Fairbanks, ***1/2)
    Black Swan (1942, Tyrone Power, Anthony Quinn, ***1/2)
    Blind Fury (1990, Rutger Hauer, **1/2)
    Bob Roberts (1992, Tim Robbins, ***1/2)
    By the Sword (1993, F. Murray Abraham, Eric Roberts, **1/2)
    Captain Blood (1935, Errol Flynn, Basil Rathbone, ***1/2)
    The Challenge (1982, Toshiro Mifune, Scott Glenn, **1/2)
    The Charge of the Light Brigade (1936, Errol Flynn, David Niven, ****)
    Conan the Barbarian (1982, Arnold Scharzenegger, James Earl Jones, **1/2)
    The Corsican Brothers (1941, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, **1/2)
    The Count of Monte Cristo (1934, Robert Donat, ***)
    The Count of Monte Cristo (1975, Richard Chamberlain, Tony Curtis,***)
    The Court Jester (1956, Danny Kaye, Basil Rathbone, **1/2)
    Crossed Swords (1978, Raquel Welch, Charlton Heston, **1/2)
    Cyrano de Bergerac (1950, Jose Ferrer, ***1/2)
    Cyrano de Bergerac (1990, Gerard Depardieu, ****)
    Dangerous Liaisons (1988, John Malkovich, Glenn Close, ***1/2)
    The Duellists (1978, Harvey Keitel, Keith Carradine, !Ridley Scott, ***)
    El Cid (1961, Charlton Heston, Sophia Loren, ***)
    The Empire Strikes Back (1980, Mark Hamill, Harrison Ford, ****)
    Excalibur (1981, Nicol Williamson, !John Boorman, ***1/2)
    The Flame and the Arrow (1950, Burt Lancaster, Virginia Mayo, ***)
    Flesh and Blood (1985, Rutger Hauer, !Paul Verhoeven, **1/2)
    The Four Musketeers (1975, Richard Chamberlain, Michael York, ***)
    Frenchman's Creek (1944, Basil Rathbone, Joan Fontaine, ***)
    Glory (1989, Matthew Broderick, Denzel Washington, ***1/2)
    Hamlet (1948, !Laurence Olivier, ****)
    Hamlet (1969, Anthony Hopkins, ***1/2)
    Hamlet (1990, Mel Gibson, Glenn Close, !Franco Zeffirelli, ***)
    Henry V (1944, Laurence Olivier, ****)
    Henry V (1989, !Kenneth Branagh, ***1/2)
    Highlander (1986, Chistopher Lambert, Sean Connery, **1/2)
    Ivanhoe (1953, Robert Taylor, Elizabeth Taylor, ***1/2)
    Ivanhoe (1982, James Mason, **1/2)
    Ladyhawke (1985, Rutger Hauer, Michelle Pfeiffer, **1/2)
    Long John Silver (1954, Robert Newton, Kit Taylor, ***)
    Macbeth (1948, Orson Welles, Roddy McDowall, ***)
    Macbeth (1971, Jon Finch, ***1/2)
    The Magic Sword (1962, Basil Rathbone, **1/2)
    The Man in Grey (1946, James Mason, Stewart Granger, ***1/2)
    The Mark of Zorro (1920, Douglas Fairbanks, ***)
    The Mark of Zorro (1940, Basil Rathbone, Tyrone Power, ***1/2)
    Morgan the Pirate (1961, Steve Reeves, **1/2)
    The Prince and the Pauper (1937, Errol Flynn, Claude Rains, ***)
    The Princess Bride (1987, Mandy Patinkin, Cary Elwes, !Rob Reiner, ***)
    The Prisoner of Zenda (1937, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, David Niven, ****)
    The Prisoner of Zenda (1952, Stewart Granger, James Mason, ***)
    The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex (1939, Errol Flynn, ***)
    Ran (1985, Tatsuya Nakadai, !Akira Kurosawa, ****)
    The Return of the Jedi (1983, Harrison Ford, Carrie Fisher, ***1/2)
    Robin and Marian (1976, Sean Connery, Audrey Hepburn, ***1/2)
    Romeo and Juliet (1935, Basil Rathbone, Leslie Howard, ***1/2)
    Romeo and Juliet (1954, Laurence Harvey, ***)
    Romeo and Juliet (1968, Michael York, !Franco Zeffirelli, ***1/2)
    Royal Flash (1975, Malcolm McDowell, ***)
    Sanjuro (1962, Toshiro Mifune, !Akira Kurosawa, ***)
    Scaramouche (1952, Stewart Granger, Janet Leigh, ***)
    The Scarlet Pimpernel (1935, Leslie Howard, Merle Oberon, ***1/2)
    The Sea Hawk (1940, Errol Flynn, Claude Rains, ****)
    The Seven Samurai (1954, Toshiro Mifune, !Akira Kurosawa, ****)
    The Seventh Voyage of Sinbad (1958, Kerwin Matthews, ***)
    Shogun (1980, Toshiro Mifune, Richard Chamberlain, **1/2)
    Sinbad the Sailor (1949, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, Maureen O'Hara, ***)
    The Spanish Main (1945, Maureen O'Hara, Paul Heinreid, ***)
    Spartacus (1960, Kirk Douglas, !Stanley Kubrick, ****)
    Star Wars (1977, Harrison Ford, Alec Guinness, ****)
    Sweet Liberty (1986, Alan Alda, Michael Caine, **1/2)
    The Sword of Sherwood Forest (1961, Richard Greene, Peter Cushing, **1/2)
    The Three Musketeers (1935, Walter Abel, **1/2)
    The Three Musketeers (1948, Gene Kelley, Lana Turner, ***)
    The Three Musketeers (1974, Michael York, Raquel Welch, ***)
    The Three Musketeers (1993, Tim Curry, Charlie Sheen, **1/2)
    Throne of Blood (1957, Toshiro Mifune, !Akira Kurosawa, ****)
    Tom Jones (1963, Albert Finney, Suzannah York, ****)
    Under the Red Robe (1937, Raymond Massey, ***)
    The Vikings (1958, Kirk Douglas, Tony Curtis, **1/2)
    The Warriors (1955, Errol Flynn, **1/2)
    Willow (1988, Val Kilmer, !Ron Howard, ***)
    The Yakuza (1975, Robert Mitchum, Takakura Ken, ***)
    Yojimbo (1962, Toshiro Mifune, !Akira Kurosawa, ****)
    Young Sherlock Holmes (1985, Nicholas Rowe, **1/2)

3.5 Fencing Videos

    This section still under construction... contributions welcome!

    Competitions:

    Promotional:

    "The Leading Edge" - available from the CFF

    Training:

    "Mark Berger's School of Fencing" - available from Triplette

    Entertainment:

    See section 3.4.

3.6 Fencing Software

    There are several software packages available for the
    administration of fencing tournaments.  They generally provide for
    automated seeding, pooling, and elimination tableau organization,
    with the ability to display/print out intermediate and final
    results.  They are best suited for events with 15 to 250 or more
    entrants.  With less than 15 entrants, organization is generally
    just as fast by hand.

    ATHOS is a French program (by Christian Coulon of Paris), although
    the display and manuals are in French or English.  ATHOS is widely
    used at world levels of competition, including the 1993 and 1994
    U-20 World Championships.  It runs on DOS PCs.  It is the only
    official fencing software recognized by the CFF.  In the USA, the
    price is $250 (includes unlimited upgrades and support).  Contact
    Marc Walch ([e-mail], [phone]).

    Engarde is another French program (by F. F. Nicaud of Paris), and
    runs on Apple or PC.  Like ATHOS, it sees extensive use at
    international levels of competition, including the 1994 World
    Championships.  It is available in French only, and is freely
    reproducible.  Contact your national fencing organization for more
    information.

    Xseed is an American program (by Dan McCormick of Hudson, Ohio),
    supported by the USFA only.  It runs on DOS PCs.  Contact the USFA
    for more information.

    There are supposed to be other programs that are more common in
    other countries and languages, such as German and Italian.
    Contact the national fencing organizations of such countries to
    find out more.

3.7 Fencing Online

    Known cyberspace fencing resources include:

    UseNet:

        rec.sport.fencing - discussion on all subjects
        rec.martial-arts - some discussion of Eastern styles and history
        rec.org.sca - some discussion of history, SCA heavy and light
            weapons styles, armoury, and weaponsmithy
    sci.military - occasional discussions of historical topics

    WWW:

        FIE fencing:

    http://www.ii.uib.no/~arild/fencing.html
    http://chico.rice.edu/~gbierner/fencing/fencing.html
    http://csclub.uwaterloo.ca/u/mabuckle/fencing/
    http://riceinfo.rice.edu/~gbierner/fencing/fencing.html
    http://sarah.rsip.lsu.edu/fencing/fencing.home.html
    http://usa.net/chanlz/fencing.html
    http://www.uc.edu/~kreinddd/cfc.html
    http://www.usu.edu/~fencing/
    http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~harlan/durendal/durendal.html
    http://www.metronet.com/1/North-Texas-Free-Net/Recreation-Center\
             /fencing
    http://www.public.iastate.edu/~grizzly/fencing/ISUFC.html
    http://www.std.com/homepages/std/recreation.html
    http://www.warwick.ac.uk/WWW/leisure-services/students-union\
             /fencing/fencing.html
    http://www.wimsey.com/teletimes/fencing_invitation.html
    http://www.york.ac.uk/~socs126/
    http://www2.uncg.edu/~mvtebaul/

    SCA & Period fencing:

    http://mac9.ucc.nau.edu/fencing.html

        Japanese fencing:

    http://gpu.srv.ualberta.ca./~lfowler/home2.html
    http://tdg.uoguelph.ca/~johanna/iaido.html
    http://www.bl.physik.tu-muenchen.de/~k2/budo_english/iaido/iaido.html
    http://www.rain.org/~galvan/galvan.html

    The Fencing FAQ is archived at:

    http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/sports/fencing-faq\
         /top.html

    FTP:

    MACC bbs:      bbs.macc.wisc.edu      /pub2/fencing
    Iaido archive: rudolf.nscl.msu.edu    /pub/iaido

    The Fencing FAQ is archived at the following locations, among others:

    North America: ftp.uu.net             /usenet/news.answers
                   rtfm.mit.edu           various directories
    Europe:        ftp.uni-paderborn.de   /pub/FAQ
                   ftp.Germany.EU.net     /pub/newsarchive/news.answers
                   grasp1.univ-lyon1.fr   /pub/faq
                   ftp.win.tue.nl         /pub/usenet/news.answers
    Asia:          nctuccca.edu.tw        /USENET/FAQ

    Gopher:

    gopher://gopher.metronet.com\
               /11/North-Texas-Free-Net/Recreation-Center/fencing/faqs
    gopher://info.utas.edu.au\
               /11/Societies%2c%20Clubs%20%26%20Associations/Fencing%20Club

    Prodigy:

        Jump: SPORTS BB or Jump: SPORTS PLAY.  Select OTHER or OTHER
        SPORTS and look for subjects beginning with "FENCING".

    CompuServe:

        GO CIS:GOODHE, and look under "Martial Arts"

    eWorld:

    The martial arts forum contains articles on fencing and iaido.

    America Online:

    GS ARTS will take you to the Martial Arts board.

    Mailing Lists:

    Touche:  send to "[e-mail]" with text
    "SUBSCRIBE TOUCHE Your Name".  (Inactive, 0-2 messages per day.)

    Iaido:  send to "[e-mail]", with text (and subject)
    "SUBSCRIBE IAIDO-L [e-mail]".  (Very active,     10-30
    messages per day.)

    Martial Arts and Swords in TV/Film:  send to "[e-mail]"
    with text "SUBSCRIBE MASTVF-L Your Name".  (Fairly active, about
    5-10 messages per day.)

    Bulletin Boards:

        Canadian Fencing Federation:  [phone]
    MACC BBS:  [phone] or [phone]; see \pub2\fencing

    GIFs, graphics, & other digital representations of fencing:

    See especially:
    http://www.ii.uib.no/~arild/fencing.html
    ftp://bbs.macc.wisc.edu/pub2/fencing
    ftp://ftp.sunet.se/pub/pictures/sports/fencing

    Many other WWW sites (shown above) have online fencing images.

3.8 Glossary of terms:

    Absence of blade:  when the blades are not touching; opposite of
        engagement.
    Advance:  a movement forward by step, cross, or balestra.
    Aids:  the last three fingers of the sword hand.
    Assault:  friendly combat between two fencers.
    Attack: the initial offensive action made by extending the sword
        arm and continuously threatening the valid target of the
        opponent.
    Attack au Fer: an attack that is prepared by deflecting the opponent's
        blade, eg. beat, froissement, pressure.
    Balestra:  a forward hop or jump, typically followed by an attack
        such as a lunge or fleche.
    Bayonet:  a type of electrical connector for weapons.
    Beat:  an attempt to knock the opponent's blade aside or out of line by
    using one's foible or middle against the opponent's foible.
    Bind:  an action in which the opponent's blade is forced into the
    diagonally opposite line.
    Black Card:  used to indicate the most serious offences in a fencing
        competition.  The offending fencer is usually expelled from the
        event or tournament.
    Bout:  an assault at which the score is kept.
    Broadsword: a military sword and fencing weapon popular in the 18th-19th
        centuries, similar to a heavy sabre; any straight-bladed, double-
        edged, single-handed cutting sword of the post-medieval period.
    Broken Time:  a sudden change in the tempo of one fencer's actions, used
        to fool the opponent into responding at the wrong time.
    Button:  the safety tip on the end of practice swords.
    Change of Engagement:  engagement of the opponent's blade in the
        opposite line.
    Compound:  also composed; an attack or riposte incorporating one or
        more feints to the opposite line that the action finishes in.
    Conversation:  the back-and-forth play of the blades in a fencing match,
        composed of phrases (phrases d'armes) punctuated by gaps of no
        blade action.
    Counter-attack:  an attack made against the right-of-way, or in
        response to the opponent's attack.
    Counter-disengage:  a disengage in the opposite direction, to deceive
    the counter-parry.
    Counter-parry:  a parry made in the opposite line to the attack; ie.
        the defender first comes around to the opposite side of the
        opponent's blade.
    Counter-riposte:  an attack that follows a parry of the opponent's
        riposte.
    Counter-time: an attack that responds to the opponent's counter-attack,
    typically a riposte following the parry of the counter-attack.
    Corps-a-corps: lit. "body-to-body"; physical contact between the
        two fencers during a bout, illegal in foil and sabre.
    Coule': also graze, glise', or glissade; an attack or feint that slides
        along the opponent's blade.
    Coup lance': a launched hit; an attack that starts before a
    stop in play but lands after.  Valid for normal halts, but not
    valid at end of time.
    Coupe': also cut-over; an attack or deception that passes around the
    opponent's tip.
    Croise: also semi-bind; an action in which the opponent's blade is
        forced into the high or low line on the same side.
    Cross:  an advance or retreat by crossing one leg over the other;
    also passe' avant (forward cross), passe' arriere (backwards cross).
    Cut:  an attack made with a chopping motion of the blade, landing with
        the edge or point.
    Deception:  avoidance of an attempt to engage the blades; see
    disengage, coupe'
    Derobement:  deception of the attack au fer or prise de fer.
    Direct: an attack or riposte that finishes in the same line in which it
        was formed, with no feints out of that line.
    Disengage: a circular movement of the blade that deceives the
    opponent's parry, removes the blades from engagement, or changes the
    line of engagement.
    Displacement:  moving the target to avoid an attack;  dodging.
    Double:  in epee, two attacks that arrive within 40-50 ms of each
        other.
    Double':  an attack or riposte that describes a complete circle
        around the opponent's blade, and finishes in the opposite line.
    Dry:  also steam; fencing without electric scoring aids.
    Engagement:  when the blades are in contact with each other, eg.
        during a parry, attack au fer, prise de fer, or coule'.
    En Garde:  also On Guard; the fencing position; the stance that
        fencers assume when preparing to fence.
    Envelopment: an engagement that sweeps the opponent's blade
    through a full circle.
    Epee:  a fencing weapon with triangular cross-section blade and a large
        bell guard;  also a light duelling sword of similar design, popular
        in the mid-19th century.
    False:  an action that is intended to fail, but draw a predicted
    reaction from the opponent; also, the back edge of a sabre blade.
    Feint:  attacking into one line with the intention of switching to
        another line before the attack is completed.
    Fencing Time: also temps d'escrime; the time required to complete
        a single, simple fencing action.
    FIE:  Federation Internationale d'Escrime, the world governing
        body of fencing.
    Finta in tempo: lit. "feint in time"; a feint of counter-attack
        that draws a counter-time parry, which is decieved.
    Fleche:  lit. "arrow";  an attack in which the aggressor leaps off his
        leading foot, attempts to make the hit, and then passes the opponent
        at a run.
    Flick:  a cutting action that lands with the point, often involving some
        whip of the foible of the blade to "throw" the point around a block
        or other obstruction.
    Florentine: a fencing style where a secondary weapon or other instrument
        is used in the off hand.
    Flying Parry or Riposte:  a parry with a backwards glide and riposte by
    cut-over.
    Foible:  the upper, weak part of the blade.
    Foil: a fencing weapon with rectangular cross-section blade and a small
        bell guard; any sword that has been buttoned to render it less
        dangerous for practice.
    Forte:  the lower, strong part of the blade.
    French Grip: a traditional hilt with a slightly curved grip and a large
        pommel.
    Froissement:  an attack that displaces the opponent's blade by a
        strong grazing action.
    Guard:  the metal cup or bow that protects the hand from being hit.
    Also, the defensive position assumed when not attacking.
    Hilt:  the handle of a sword, consisting of guard, grip, and pommel.
    Homologated:  certified for use in FIE competitions, eg. 800N clothing
        and maraging blades.
    In Quartata:  an attack made with a quarter turn to the inside,
        concealing the front but exposing the back.
    In Time:  when a stop-hit arrives at least one fencing time before
        the original attack.
    Indirect: an attack or riposte that finishes in the opposite line to
        which it was formed, by means of a disengage or coupe'.
    Insistence:  forcing an attack through the parry.
    Invitation:  a line that is intentionally left open to encourage
        the opponent to attack.
    Italian Grip:  a traditional hilt with finger rings and crossbar.
    Jury:  the 4 officials who watch for hits in a dry fencing bout.
    Lame':  a metallic vest/jacket used to detect valid touches in foil
        and sabre.
    Line: the main direction of an attack (eg., high/low, inside/outside),
        often equated to the parry that must be made to deflect the attack;
        also point in line.
    Lunge:  an attack made by extending the rear leg and landing on the
        bent front leg.
    Mal-parry:  also mal-pare'; a parry that fails to prevent the attack
        from landing.
    Manipulators:  the thumb and index finger of the sword hand.
    Maraging:  a special steel used for making blades;  said to be stronger
        and break more cleanly than conventional steels.
    Marker Points:  an old method of detecting hits using inked points.
    Martingale:  a strap that binds the grip to the wrist/forearm.
    Match:  the aggregate of bouts between two fencing teams.
    Measure:  the distance between the fencers.
    Middle:  the middle third of the blade, between foible and forte.
    Neuvieme:  parry #9; blade behind the back, pointing down;
    alternatively, similiar to elevated sixte.
    Octave:  parry #8; blade down and to the outside, wrist supinated.
    Opposition:  holding the opponent's blade in a non-threatening line;
        a time-hit;  any attack or counter-attack with opposition.
    Parry:  a block of the attack, made with the forte of one's own blade.
    Pass:  an attack made with a cross;  eg. fleche, "Russian lunge".
    Also, the act of moving past the opponent.
    Passata-sotto:  a lunge made by dropping one hand to the floor.
    Passe':  an attack that passes the target without hitting; also a
    cross-step (see cross).
    Phrase:  a set of related actions and reactions in a fencing conversation.
    Piste:  the linear strip on which a fencing bout is fought; approx.
        2m wide and 14m long.
    Pistol Grip:  a modern, orthopaedic grip, shaped vaguely like a small
        pistol;  varieties are known by names such as Belgian, German,
        Russian, and Visconti.
    Plaque':  a point attack that lands flat.
    Plastron: a partial jacket worn for extra protection; typically a
        half-jacket worn under the main jacket on the weapon-arm side of the
        body.
    Point:  a valid touch;  the tip of the sword;  an attack made with
        the point (ie. a thrust)
    Point in Line: also line; an extended arm and blade that threatens
        the opponent.
    Pommel:  a fastener that attaches the grip to the blade.
    Preparation:  the initial phase of an attack, before right-of-way is
        established.
    Presentation:  offering one's blade for engagement by the opponent.
    Press: an attempt to push the opponent's blade aside or out of line;
        depending on the opponent's response, the press is followed by a
        direct or indirect attack.
    Prime:  parry #1;  blade down and to the inside, wrist pronated.
    Principle of Defence:  the use of forte against foible when parrying.
    Priority:  in sabre, the now-superceded rules that decide which fencer
        will be awarded the touch in the event that they both attack
        simultaneously; also used synonymously with right-of-way.
    Prise de Fer:  also taking the blade; an engagement of the blades
        that forces the opponent's weapon into a new line.  See: bind,
        croise, envelopment, opposition.
    Quarte:  parry #4;  blade up and to the inside, wrist supinated.
    Quinte:  parry #5;  blade up and to the inside, wrist pronated.
        In sabre, the blade is held above the head to protect from head
        cuts.
    Rapier:  a long, double-edged thrusting sword popular in the 16th-17th
        centuries.
    Red Card:  used to indicate repeated minor rule infractions or a major
        rule infraction by one of the fencers;  results in a point being
        given to the other fencer.
    Redoublement: a new action that follows an attack that missed or
        was parried;  see also Reprise.
    Referee:  also director, president; the mediator of the fencing bout.
    Remise:  immediate replacement of an attack that missed or was
        parried, without withdrawing the arm.
    Reprise:  renewal of an attack that missed or was parried, after a
        return to en-garde;  see also Redoublement.
    Retreat:  step back;  opposite of advance.
    Right-of-way:  rules for awarding the point in the event of a double
        touch in foil or sabre.
    Riposte:  an attack made immediately after a parry of the opponent's
        attack.
    Sabre: a fencing weapon with a flat blade and knuckle guard, used with
        cutting or thrusting actions; a military sword popular in the 18th
        to 20th centuries; any cutting sword used by cavalry.
    Salle:  a fencing hall or club.
    Salute:  with the weapon, a customary acknowledgement of one's
        opponent and referee at the start and end of the bout.
    Second Intention: a false action used to draw a response from the
        opponent, which will open the opportunity for the intended
        action that follows, typically a counter-riposte.
    Seconde:  parry #2;  blade down and to the outside, wrist pronated.
    Septime:  parry #7;  blade down and to the inside, wrist supinated.
    Simple:  an attack or riposte that involves no feints.
    Simultaneous:  in foil and sabre, two attacks for which the
        right-of-way is too close to determine.
    Single Stick:  a form of fencing with basket-hilted wooden sticks.
    Sixte:  parry #6;  blade up and to the outside, wrist supinated.
    Small Sword: a light duelling sword popular in the 18th century,
    precursor to the foil.
    Stop Hit:  a counter-attack that hits; also a counter-attack whose touch
    is valid by virtue of it's timing.
    Stop Cut:  a stop-hit with the edge in sabre, typically to the cuff.
    Three Prong:  a type of epee body wire/connector;  also an old-fashioned
        tip that would snag clothing, to make it easier to detect hits in the
        pre-electric era.
    Thrown Point:  a "flick".
    Thrust:  an attack made by moving the sword parallel to its length and
        landing with the point.
    Tierce:  parry #3;  blade up and to the outside, wrist pronated.
    Time Hit:  also time-thrust; old name for stop hit with opposition.
    Trompement:  deception of the parry.
    Two Prong:  a type of body-wire/connector, used in foil and sabre.
    Whip-over:  in sabre, a touch that results from the foible of the blade
        whipping over the opponent's guard or blade when parried.
    Whites:  fencing clothing.
    Yellow Card:  also advertissement, warning;  used to indicate a minor
        rule infraction by one of the fencers.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Author: Morgan Burke ([e-mail])
Contributors: special thanks to Suman Palit, Guy Smith, Greg Dilworth,
    Kevin Taylor, Eric Anderson, Blaine Price, Steve Hick, Kim
    Moser, David Glasser, Bryan Mansfield, Donald Lane, Ann McBain,
    Hagen Lieffertz, Mark C. Orton, Mike Buckley, Dirk Goldar,
    Scott Holmes, Arild Dyrseth, David Airey, Renee Mcmeeken, Marc
    Walch, Eric Speicher, Anton Oskamp, Bernard Hunt, Francis Cordero,
    Kent Krumvieda, David Van Houten, John Crawford

(C) 1993, 1994, 1995 Morgan Burke
Permission is granted to copy and distribute all or part of this document
for non-profit purposes.

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End of rec.sport.fencing FAQ part III